A recap of the Gremlins annual fall bikepacking retreat...
Our annual Bigwind trip started off as it usually does; group chat buzzing, friends in multiple different cities coordinating gear and talking shit about whether or not the other person was going to make it, and getting really stoked to hit the trail again. In years past we've had a group as big as 15 rolling around the Muskoka woods. This year would be a slightly different, a core group of 7 friends and some unexpected adventures. It's best to be as prepared as possible because you never know what could happen when you're geeked out of your gourd in the woods.
Each year we venture farther and farther into the park in vehicles, exploring the limits of our pavement princesses. This year was no different. We took the vehicles as far into the park as we could, only getting turned around when we started bottoming out on rocks. Didn't want to blow an oil pan. It just goes to show how rocky parts of the route can be. Night one was spent around the campfire with a ton of food and beer, and all the luxuries that car camping offers. This is always a great way to start the trip, shooting cans and occasionally each other's asses with a Red Ryder.
The bike trip officially started when our Caboose from Toronto caught up with us in the parking lot. We got packed up on our bicycles and headed out down Black River Road in the sunshine. We've really lucked out the last few years with perfect weather, and this year was no different. We had all-day sun, little to no clouds, and no bugs. The weather is just warm enough to wear shorts and a t-shirt and just cold enough that you're not overheating. I'd say pretty much the most perfect weather you could ask for. The first 10 km of the route going clockwise around the park is quite dicey. This makes it exceptionally fun on 26-inch mountain bikes without an enormous amount of tire clearance. The climbs are steep, the descents are fast and loose, and the flats are a nice break in between. We took the first part as slow as we wanted to, enjoying finally being out on the bikes. It's nice to keep in mind that you don't have to go very fast to have fun.
We stopped at the rock slab for lunch, and to our surprise someone had got a Jayco pop-up trailer down there. They had set up camp at the shore of the lake, which looked super scenic. I'm still not sure how they got that Jayco trailer down there; must have been quite the skilled driver. It's also a popular spot for four-wheelers and dirt bikes to come post up for a scenic second. The environment in Big Wind Provincial Park is extremely alive. The vibrant marshland, the thick forest, and the lakes that fit in between are all very active. It's nice to observe such natural beauty by your own means. Pedalling a bicycle around an environment like this seems like the most sustainable way to see the landscape, not to mention you're actually able to see things in close detail, familiarizing yourself with the landscape even quicker.
We had been out for about 4 hours and only covered 20 km. We didnt care. Although the second half of the first day was going to be quite the mission. We still had the hike-a-bike towards the end to look forward to, not to mention we also wanted to swim, shoot guns, go fishing and have a bonfire before turning off the lights. It gets darker earlier late September, which you notice even more in a thick forest. ***I should also mention that our entire group neglected to download any sort of navigation assistance this year. Not sure if we all forgot, or we've just done this route so many times now that we don't think about it, but nobody had access to the route, and service is quite shoddy up there. If you're going to go up there for the first time, I would highly recommend downloading the route from bikepacking.com, as the turns can be difficult to remember even for experienced ramblers.
At one point there is a turn where you hop off the pavement and onto a logging road. We noticed this turn by the landmark that is the dirt wall ride: a steep dirt bank that you can ride on. We turned onto this road at approximately 5:00 p.m., although no one really remembers what time it was. There were five of seven people in the first group who made the turn; the other two in the Caboose were frolicking and lollygagging and enjoying their time. Unfortunately for the Caboose, they missed the turn and kept riding for another 2 hours before realizing they had gone the wrong way, causing quite the confusion. They made it approximately 10 km as the crow flies from the campsite (20km+ back along the road from the turn), but were separated by thick bush and a lake. Unable to reach the group from where they were. There's practically no other way to get to the campsite than on the trail we all had intentions of taking. The first group of three made it through the gun range, up and down over the steep rocky hills, through the multiple bog crossings and out to the end of the trail, which is the campsite on Carcass Lake that we've stayed at every single year we've gone out. It's really cool to see how it changes from year to year. I'm sure the forest greets us with a familiar feeling when we roll in.
By dusk, when the Caboose had not shown up or checked in, we were a little concerned. We are all experienced in our own ways, but being out in these remote parts with nothing but the gear on your bicycle can be a challenge even for the most seasoned ramblers. When we finally contacted the Caboose via Liam's flip phone, which was the only device able to connect to the internet, we were surprised to hear them almost in Dorset. We were able to send them the GPS coordinates of the turn that they missed and the campsite that we were at before our phone died, and they would be on their own for the entire night. No water filtration, alone in the forest. Around 11:00 p.m., a search party departed from base camp in hopes of wrangling the Caboose somewhere along the way. To our delight, they had done the super steep rocky hills and multiple bog crossings already, all in the dark. By midnight the boys were back together at basecamp, crashing into tents and going nonverbal around the campfire.
Camping at this campsite is incredible for many reasons, but a huge one is the bug factor. In late September there are practically no bugs in this area. You're fine to sleep outside with no tent and not worry about getting your face chomped. Some people like a tent, some people like a hammock, and some people like a lighter pannier and opt to sleep on the ground. It does get cold, however, so a 0° sleeping bag is quite nice. A puffy jacket, a nice base layer, wool socks and a toque are practically all you need. That is, if you're seasoned vagrants like us.
A Wild man once said, "Come morning, coffee shall brew." I genuinely think he thought of that on a camping trip, because the best thing in the morning is watching the sunrise with a hot cup of coffee. What a fucking genius. Come morning, the coffee did indeed brew, and it was delicious. It was really nice waking up with the entire group after quite the uncertain evening. We chilled as long as we wanted at the campsite, cooking breakfast and fixing our bikes. James had somehow emptied his entire fishing spool into Ayden's cassette in true angler fashion, which needed attentive removal. James would end up locking in on this task like his life depended on it. Good job, James.
Once we had loaded up, we hit the trail back towards the cars on the second leg of the trip. The second day, if you do the route in reverse, is a lot less chunk, more rolling hills and interesting forest. There are some scenic lakes, but less shoreline access than the first day. If you cut out the trench warfare close to Old Wagon Road, you significantly shorten the leg back to the car. I think the total tally ends up being in the high 20 km or low 30 km total distance. Super chill.
It's cool to see how private cabins fit into this landscape. The roads can be quite remote and unmaintained, and you sure don't see many neighbours up there. The area is also a destination for weekend users with trailers and camping rigs. We saw some cool overland vehicles and said we would all like to come back on dirt bikes to do the trip at some point.
Getting back to the car always feels like you've won the race. Your only competitor is yourself, and whether or not you can complete the tour, sometimes its harder than others. Always fun though. We've gotten smarter and have started leaving coolers full of ice and water for when we return. Nothing quite wets your whistle like an ice-cold Sunny D at the end of a dirty tour. We thanked Bigwind for having us again and headed our separate ways back to the caves we came from. Another year in the books, glad to be able to do this type of thing. Hoping we can all do this till we croak.
Photos and write up by Mason 4G Lover
If you enjoy camping, at Bigwind Lake or anywhere else, and feel inclined to preserve the landscape; there is a petition going around to PROTECT MUSKOKAS BIGWIND LAKE PROVINCIAL PARK. Feel free to participate.
